Guest keltik

What have you done to your car today?

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1 hour ago, Subru said:

But yeah I will probably look at that corgiwerx product if you like it.

Im also in the hunt for a rear shifter bush that doesn't cost me another kidney.

 

Corgiwerx were excellent! Highly recommend them. Bloody cheap compared to Subaru too.

 

Rear shifter bush? Is that the ones that go in the shifter (which your knob goes on), or the support ones that go to the back of the gearbox?

Whiteline make 2 kits of the support ones - KDT957 for 5 speeds, and KDT958 for the 6 speeds.

Corgiwerx will be able to make the ones in the shifter arm. I did the knuckle ones, and the shifter arm ones at the same time.

 

 

1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:

I've just got a stock rear shift bushing to go in mine. Was going to do it tonight but it couldn't fit out the way I originally thought so i’m going to wait until I have the front bushings to do at the same time and drop that whole rod

 

Just to note if you're talking about the knuckle - getting it off the car is a bastard of a job.

I ended up cutting the bolt that comes out horizontally (towards the passenger side), and getting a new one, and putting it in from the drivers side.

I found that grinding one hex side of the bolt head flush with the shank, putting the transmission 2nd, and the bolt would just clear the transmission, so I could get that back in.

This is unless you plan on knocking out the pin holding the knuckle mount to the transmission, which is probably easier; but wouldn't work for me.

Edited by Individualities

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14 minutes ago, Individualities said:

 

Corgiwerx were excellent! Highly recommend them. Bloody cheap compared to Subaru too.

 

Rear shifter bush? Is that the ones that go in the shifter (which your knob goes on), or the support ones that go to the back of the gearbox?

Whiteline make 2 kits of the support ones - KDT957 for 5 speeds, and KDT958 for the 6 speeds.

Corgiwerx will be able to make the ones in the shifter arm. I did the knuckle ones, and the shifter arm ones at the same time.

 

 

 

Just to note if you're talking about the knuckle - getting it off the car is a bastard of a job.

I ended up cutting the bolt that comes out horizontally (towards the passenger side), and getting a new one, and putting it in from the drivers side.

I found that grinding one hex side of the bolt head flush with the shank, putting the transmission 2nd, and the bolt would just clear the transmission, so I could get that back in.

This is unless you plan on knocking out the pin holding the knuckle mount to the transmission, which is probably easier; but wouldn't work for me.

 

Yea have heard it's a bit of a prick of a job, that's why I'm getting the whole lot so they can all be done at the same time and then i’ll hopefully never have to get in there again.

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Do you guys ever hit that wall with a car and are just like "f*ck this" and just want to send it to a workshop for someone else to figure out and unf*ck?

For me, that is my RA. It's quickly become a project I don't want to do, and has landed squarely in the to hard basket. Think I'm going to put more money aside to give it to a proper workshop like@sas@gotasuby because I just cannot be bothered anymore.

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

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Began making a custom grill for my Legacy... Then realised its a facelift grill. So it doesn't fit! Buggere3c549e9264a1a5a669914c713b3ab8c.jpg

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8 minutes ago, ilikethetuna said:

Then realised its a facelift grill

 

It's not.

Facelift grilles are similar in height to pre-face spec.B and are all the same size across the whole range.

Pre-face come in a bunch of different sizes. 

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It's not.
Facelift grilles are similar in height to pre-face spec.B and are all the same size across the whole range.
Pre-face come in a bunch of different sizes. 
Oh. I didn't know that, ty. So does the size of the grill depend on the bumper in a pre facelift?

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9 hours ago, Dairusire said:

Do you guys ever hit that wall with a car and are just like "f*ck this" and just want to send it to a workshop for someone else to figure out and unf*ck?

For me, that is my RA. It's quickly become a project I don't want to do, and has landed squarely in the to hard basket. Think I'm going to put more money aside to give it to a proper workshop like@sas@gotasuby because I just cannot be bothered anymore.

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
 

Feel your pain mate - i need to get the heads dialled in properly in my RS (just dont have the time not skill to pull the motor and re-set heads etc) so the plan is to send it in, sort out manifold and turbo conversion at the same time and straight in for a tune. Been saving all damn year for it though, but at least the car is still driveable.

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10 hours ago, Dairusire said:

Do you guys ever hit that wall with a car and are just like "f*ck this" and just want to send it to a workshop for someone else to figure out and unf*ck?

For me, that is my RA. It's quickly become a project I don't want to do, and has landed squarely in the to hard basket. Think I'm going to put more money aside to give it to a proper workshop like@sas@gotasuby because I just cannot be bothered anymore.

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
 

 

It's a slippery slope and the costs add up very fast. If you have problems that are really above you're abilities to fix... or you just don't have the tools, then taking it to a professional is a good thing. If you just can't be bothered... and have run out of steam... maybe it would be better to take a break from the car for a while until your enthusiasm returns.

Edited by Loren

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10 hours ago, Dairusire said:

Do you guys ever hit that wall with a car and are just like "f*ck this" and just want to send it to a workshop for someone else to figure out and unf*ck?

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
 

 

I felt that way after I installed my "fancy" new speakers, only to find they sound like hollow crap and then for a few days later one side stopped working because a cable manged to pry loose. HOWEVER, I'm glad I got it done, some tuning with the headunit and they're alright. 

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Fixed 

 

14 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Then enjoyed a quality water whilst mulling over what to do next

44944343295_fcfe18fec4_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Dairusire said:

Do you guys ever hit that wall with a car and are just like "f*ck this" and just want to send it to a workshop for someone else to figure out and unf*ck?

For me, that is my RA. It's quickly become a project I don't want to do, and has landed squarely in the to hard basket. Think I'm going to put more money aside to give it to a proper workshop like@sas@gotasuby because I just cannot be bothered anymore.

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
 

I haven't modified mine much but I feel that way too sometimes.

Currently have a very squeaky front sway bar or something :(

Sucks when its daily too..

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8 minutes ago, Subru said:

Currently have a very squeaky front sway bar or something :(

Sucks when its daily too..

 

If it's got poly (Whiteline or Nolathane, etc) bushings for the mounts, and you have some spare polyurethane grease, just pull them off, grease up the inside of the bushing where the sway bar works, and you're sweet.

If you've fitted ploy kits, you should have some grease spare. I have like 50 packets of the stuff lol

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Just now, Individualities said:

 

If it's got poly (Whiteline or Nolathane, etc) bushings for the mounts, and you have some spare polyurethane grease, just pull them off, grease up the inside of the bushing where the sway bar works, and you're sweet.

If you've fitted ploy kits, you should have some grease spare. I have like 50 packets of the stuff lol

Yeah I did that just 30 mins ago lol. Helped it a little however I will see tomorrow as its worse when its cold and in the morning for some reason, drove me mad this morning but on my way home it was not too bad... xD

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50 minutes ago, Subru said:

Yeah I did that just 30 mins ago lol. Helped it a little however I will see tomorrow as its worse when its cold and in the morning for some reason, drove me mad this morning but on my way home it was not too bad... xD

 

Could also be the bushings you did. Might need more grease lol.

I have known sway bar links to squeak, but incredibly rarely.

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1 hour ago, Subru said:

Yeah I did that just 30 mins ago lol. Helped it a little however I will see tomorrow as its worse when its cold and in the morning for some reason, drove me mad this morning but on my way home it was not too bad... xD

Did you tighten the lower control arm bolts when the car was at normal ride height? If you didn't I would say that the small front bush in the LCA is likely the cause of the squeak. If you torque it while the wheels are hanging the bush will be under tension when LCA moves back to ride height.

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1 minute ago, IZichard said:

Did you tighten the lower control arm bolts when the car was at normal ride height? If you didn't I would say that the small front bush in the LCA is likely the cause of the squeak. If you torque it while the wheels are hanging the bush will be under tension when LCA moves back to ride height.

uhh I tightened the front LCA bush with wheels hanging but the rear ALK I did on the ground...

Should I just loosen the front bush and tighten back up on ground or do I need to re tighten the Rear ALK bush too? I hope I dont need to remove subframe again lol...

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2 minutes ago, Subru said:

uhh I tightened the front LCA bush with wheels hanging but the rear ALK I did on the ground...

Should I just loosen the front bush and tighten back up on ground or do I need to re tighten the Rear ALK bush too? I hope I dont need to remove subframe again lol...

You should only need to do the front bush if you already did the ALK. Drive the car up onto some blocks, crack the two front bolts loose. Then bounce the front of the car up and down a couple times and re-tighten, should be sweet.

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The front bush is factory bush.

I did re tighten it just now and still squeaked a bunch when pulling out of garage and around driveway. Was a lot worse on passenger side which was the side with the bent mount . Btw I did reverse the nut and bolt direction (on both arms) so the nut is at the front of the car and bolt is rear because it made installing the arms a lot easier. I doubt this would make any difference tho.

Is it possible I didnt tighten the ALK enough? I did the 2 bolts holding it to body with a short breaker bar as tight as I could while lying down but only had big adjustable crescent for the one big bolt.

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38 minutes ago, Subru said:

The front bush is factory bush.

I did re tighten it just now and still squeaked a bunch when pulling out of garage and around driveway. Was a lot worse on passenger side which was the side with the bent mount . Btw I did reverse the nut and bolt direction (on both arms) so the nut is at the front of the car and bolt is rear because it made installing the arms a lot easier. I doubt this would make any difference tho.

Is it possible I didnt tighten the ALK enough? I did the 2 bolts holding it to body with a short breaker bar as tight as I could while lying down but only had big adjustable crescent for the one big bolt.

The torque spec for the big nut is fairly high iirc. Should say in the ALK box what the recommended torque is. If you have a helper available you should get them to bounce the car while you listen underneath. Then at least you can be sure which point is the source of the noise.

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Picked up the Forester from a full service from Subtech yesterday. Impressed with their attention to detail - from tightening the handbrake to replacing a couple of missing clips in the front bumper. They also noticed the WOF had just run out so took it through a WOF free of charge.

 

Also had them fit Ferodo DS2500 pads (from Race Brakes) and new rotors to the front and a Whiteline 22mm rear swaybar. 

 

Brakes need a proper bedding in but so far so good. Swaybar has also made a noticeable difference as expected so I'm looking forward to taking it for a good blat. Happy days

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4 hours ago, Flat4 said:

Impressed with their attention to detail - from tightening the handbrake to replacing a couple of missing clips in the front bumper.

 

That is amazing attention to detail! Especially considering body clips in general (if original etc) are not cheap. Handy to get a cheap kit off AliExpress or something similar to keep at home. 

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4 hours ago, Flat4 said:

Picked up the Forester from a full service from Subtech yesterday. Impressed with their attention to detail - from tightening the handbrake to replacing a couple of missing clips in the front bumper. They also noticed the WOF had just run out so took it through a WOF free of charge.

 

Also had them fit Ferodo DS2500 pads (from Race Brakes) and new rotors to the front and a Whiteline 22mm rear swaybar. 

 

Brakes need a proper bedding in but so far so good. Swaybar has also made a noticeable difference as expected so I'm looking forward to taking it for a good blat. Happy days

 

Are you running stock end links with your 22mm bar?

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12 minutes ago, mtbtimr said:

 

Are you running stock end links with your 22mm bar?

 

Yep - was set on ordering in heavy duty links but Subtech said they usually run factory links without issue so I'm taking a punt

 

Will be keeping a close eye on them but I snapped steel Whiteline links in my old Legacy so I don't think they'll last long

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One thing less to worry about - replaced the 6 year old battery in the car.

Was testing fine - about 80CCA lower than stated on the sticker (500CCA new, testing about 420CCA).

Plus 6 years old. Didn't want to be stuck somewhere where I wouldn't be able to bump start it.

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