Guest keltik

What have you done to your car today?

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Finally got around to changing the Japanese factory Sat Nav heady to with a new Apple CarPlay unit. Holy crap swear I buy cars with the most overtop wiring. My old BH5 legacy was the same wiring wise too!
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26 minutes ago, Kiwiflyboy said:

Finally got around to changing the Japanese factory Sat Nav heady to with a new Apple CarPlay unit. Holy crap swear I buy cars with the most overtop wiring. My old BH5 legacy was the same wiring wise too!

 

It's generally the entertainment systems that the previous owners in Japan have installed.

I pulled out about 3-5kg of wiring from my BE Legacy when I pulled out the buggered McIntosh system stuff, and basically a complete Pioneer Cariozeria system, minus the Headunit. There was a bunch of wiring under the passenger side carpet, just coiled there.

Has a cheap and nasty Domain double Din in there now. Really need to upgrade to an Android Auto unit.

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On 11/12/2018 at 7:41 PM, Timmah said:

 

Well.. I ordered it on Friday, and guess what has just been installed? 

 

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How much of a difference did this make? I've been considering installing a kit.

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Booked car in to have the two recalls rectified. Also asked for them to take a look at the A/C mode and mix actuators whilst the dash is out.

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Had two days off work so I decided to tint the front windows of the legacy. I've never done tinting before but have done very similar jobs at work. I'm a sign maker so I've done frosting and all kinds of window graphics. It's not perfect by any means but it's a whole lot better than having the windows mismatched! 2b0311a26ccb11c102a33e487cb94a31.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, RaKid said:

 

How much of a difference did this make? I've been considering installing a kit.

 

I haven't installed the bushes yet as I don't have a means of getting under the car, however the short shift is great! Has reduced the throw a good amount.

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Rescaled my MAF as it’s been pretty terrible in its trims for the last year or two. Also toned back the boost a bit so it should be still reasonable for third gear pulls at Manfeild. 

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Finally fixed my dang squeaking noise (95% sure anyways).

So I lifted car off the ground, unbolted sway bar end links (to see if it still squeaks with them off) and still squeaked so I know its something to do with the Control arm bushes (specifically the Anti Lift kit) and not the Sway bar. I loosened front and rear control arm bolts, lowered car down on bits of wood, jumped around car to level the bushes again, tightened bushes back again and still squeaked. Was looking around and saw that the subframe was jammed hard up against the Anti lift kit and part of the bush so I unbolted the four rear 14mm bolts on subframe (2 on each side) and it dropped down about about 2mm below body. I knew this would be the noise so I put a decent washer in between the subframe and body and re tightened the subframe 14mm bolts, drove 50m down road and boom its fixed. The noise drove me crazy so im so happy I got it fixed. Weird no one else has had this issue...

You can see below its touching ALK and Bush.

20181119-205703-Copy.jpg

After I installed washer you can see there is a gap now.

20181119-210555-Copy.jpg

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15 minutes ago, Subru said:

Finally fixed my dang squeaking noise (95% sure anyways).

So I lifted car off the ground, unbolted sway bar end links (to see if it still squeaks with them off) and still squeaked so I know its something to do with the Control arm bushes (specifically the Anti Lift kit) and not the Sway bar. I loosened front and rear control arm bolts, lowered car down on bits of wood, jumped around car to level the bushes again, tightened bushes back again and still squeaked. Was looking around and saw that the subframe was jammed hard up against the Anti lift kit and part of the bush so I unbolted the four rear 14mm bolts on subframe (2 on each side) and it dropped down about about 2mm below body. I knew this would be the noise so I put a decent washer in between the subframe and body and re tightened the subframe 14mm bolts, drove 50m down road and boom its fixed. The noise drove me crazy so im so happy I got it fixed. Weird no one else has had this issue...

You can see below its touching ALK and Bush.

20181119-205703-Copy.jpg

After I installed washer you can see there is a gap now.

20181119-210555-Copy.jpg

 

Glad you got it fixed! It definitely shouldn't be like that normally.

If you've got a WoF soon, take it down a gravel road for a bit, and get the underside a bit dirty. An inspector may have their own opinions about what you did.

I don't see anything wrong with what you've done.

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1 minute ago, Individualities said:

 

Glad you got it fixed! It definitely shouldn't be like that normally.

If you've got a WoF soon, take it down a gravel road for a bit, and get the underside a bit dirty. An inspector may have their own opinions about what you did.

I don't see anything wrong with what you've done.

Just got a wof about 3 weeks ago :D

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Took the RS for a few laps at Levels Raceway for the 4 & Rotor South Island Champs, I think the pictures tell me I need to do a bit of suspension work....

 

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1 hour ago, Subru said:

Was looking around and saw that the subframe was jammed hard up against the Anti lift kit and part of the bush so I unbolted the four rear 14mm bolts on subframe (2 on each side) and it dropped down about about 2mm below body. I knew this would be the noise so I put a decent washer in between the subframe and body and re tightened the subframe 14mm bolts, drove 50m down road and boom its fixed. The noise drove me crazy so im so happy I got it fixed. Weird no one else has had this issue...

You can see below its touching ALK and Bush.

 

After I installed washer you can see there is a gap now.

In the kit there is supposed to be a series of spacers that moves that U brace down and allows clearance. Maybe you were given the kit for a GC/GF that wouldn’t include the spacers.

You can see one of the spacers on the left of this picture, there are supposed to be 6 or 8 in total.

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2 hours ago, IZichard said:

In the kit there is supposed to be a series of spacers that moves that U brace down and allows clearance. Maybe you were given the kit for a GC/GF that wouldn’t include the spacers.

You can see one of the spacers on the left of this picture, there are supposed to be 6 or 8 in total.

 

As shown in this install guide. Proper (looks to be CNC'd) alloy spacer blocks. This is for the KCA359.

You've probably been given the KCA319A Subru, which doesn't have spacers (install guide).

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Yep your right. Im pretty sure I have gotten more incorrect parts than correct ones at this point. The front essentials kit I got definitely was WEK076 (I remember checking the label) but came with WEK075 ALK and WEK075 front LCA bushes. 

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On 11/15/2018 at 10:20 PM, Kiwiflyboy said:

Finally got around to changing the Japanese factory Sat Nav heady to with a new Apple CarPlay unit. Holy crap swear I buy cars with the most overtop wiring. My old BH5 legacy was the same wiring wise too!
*SNIP

1

Ooo man...see I got some work then this weekend....

 

Just ordered a replacement unit as well for my pioneer carrozzeria - and its also full house, wiring going everywhere, GPS antenna's, speakers, microphone and some funny odd job thing under the steering column.

 

One thing, is the GPS antenna's universal? really dont want to pull all that wiring out and off the windscreen?

 

Here is my unit that needs to come out and then the replacement unit ordered

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Edited by HannesNel

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From memory, the antenna on the wind screen are for TV.

It would be safe to say that using the GPS antenna that comes with the new Headunit is a good idea. Also means you can pull those ugly things off the windscreen! 

You'll probably also find a DVD drive under one of the front seats, and a bunch of wiring coiled under the front carpets. There will also probably be a Japanese toll card thing (it speaks when you start the car), you can just tear that right out.

In my opinion, it would be best to tear all this wiring out, and then wire in all that you need. Makes it simpler if something goes wrong later, so you're not having to untangle the Cariozera stuff.

 

This is all from my experience with my 02 BE Legacy, and a fresh import 02 BH Legacy that Dad traded with his NZ New 01 Impreza STI 10 years ago.

Edited by Individualities

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1 minute ago, Individualities said:

From memory, the antenna on the wind screen are for TV.

It would be safe to say that using the GPS antenna that comes with the new Headunit is a good idea. Also means you can pull those ugly things off the windscreen! 

You'll probably also find a DVD drive under one of the front seats, and a bunch of wiring coiled under the front carpets. There will also probably be a Japanese toll card thing (it speaks when you start the car), you can just tear that right out.

In my opinion, it would be best to tear all this wiring out, and then wire in all that you need. Makes it simpler if something goes wrong later, so you're not having to untangle the Cariozera stuff.

 

This is all from my experience with my 02 BE Legacy, and a fresh import 02 BH Legacy that Dad traded for a NZ New 01 Impreza STI 10 years ago.

True...I like to do to clean installations.

 

Question, did you have to modify the adaptors and did it come with the units?

 

That's the one thing I haven't ordered...I also need to see to find the steering wheel controls and wire those back in as they currently not working with the Pioneer

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True...I like to do to clean installations.
 
Question, did you have to modify the adaptors and did it come with the units?
 
That's the one thing I haven't ordered...I also need to see to find the steering wheel controls and wire those back in as they currently not working with the Pioneer



I ripped it all out so I had a clean install way easier that way as said above to actually know what is really in there and problem solving.

The cars main wiring harness for the stereo in new models with the 20pin adapter have the steering wheels controls on it so all I had to do was wire a 3.5 audio jack to the 2 wire and then the Sony headunit I had you can tell it what each button does which was mint as didn’t need an adapter like with older setups I have had.

The long cables that run up to the windows are usually TV not sat.

I was lucky that it didn’t have the DVD player under passenger seat like my old BH5 that had even more cables

Good luck with the install
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39 minutes ago, HannesNel said:

True...I like to do to clean installations.

 

Question, did you have to modify the adaptors and did it come with the units?

 

That's the one thing I haven't ordered...I also need to see to find the steering wheel controls and wire those back in as they currently not working with the Pioneer

 

You should be able to buy an adapter kit that adapts the Subaru plug to either a mid plug, then mid plug to stereo, or just all in one Subaru to Headunit. The speaker outs from the Headunit are probably just RCA plugs.

Steering wheel controls is a bit beyond myself. But if you want to spend the time figuring it out, go ahead. Document it on the Forum in the garage section, so if someone else in future wants to do it, there is already some sort of guidelines.

If you can't get the controls to work, and want a steering wheel without controls, go have a browse at a Pick-a-part wreckers for one.

Edited by Individualities

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Took my car in to Winger to get the two outstanding recalls sorted.
They had a quick look at the A/C actuators but didn't notice anything.

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At least the recalls are done.

 

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8 minutes ago, HannesNel said:

Ordered some more toys for the car, Most LED's HID's 

 

Hopefully not LEDs that go in HID sockets.

I've been told to not mess with that stuff.

If it's LEDs going into just normal incandescent sockets, that's fine. If you want LED indicators, get TapTurn. TapTurn also enables the 3 tick on the light press of the stalk.

If you're putting LEDs in Halogen sockets, make sure the heat sink clears the covers and all that.

 

___________

 

@Subru I was just thinking, you should space out the opposite side bracing like you did to stop the squeaking. Since the proper kit for your car has them.

 

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14 minutes ago, Individualities said:

 

Hopefully not LEDs that go in HID sockets.

I've been told to not mess with that stuff.

If it's LEDs going into just normal incandescent sockets, that's fine. If you want LED indicators, get TapTurn. TapTurn also enables the 3 tick on the light press of the stalk.

If you're putting LEDs in Halogen sockets, make sure the heat sink clears the covers and all that.

 

___________

 

@Subru I was just thinking, you should space out the opposite side bracing like you did to stop the squeaking. Since the proper kit for your car has them.

 

Yes, LEDs only for the normal incandescent sockets (map doors, brakes, reverse etc) but HID for the headlights

 

Thanks for the TapTurn recommendation...took a 100km drive today and really missed the single flick to get 3 ticks

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21 minutes ago, HannesNel said:

Yes, LEDs only for the normal incandescent sockets (map doors, brakes, reverse etc) but HID for the headlights

 

I will just add, as it happened for me on my BE Legacy - when I put a LED in the high stop light, it brought up a ABS code. I'm not sure if the BL/BP Legacy's do the same thing.

But what you can do is buy a Narva LED resistor from an auto sparkie. They simulate the load of a normal incandescent bulb, while enabling a LED to function. Has 2 little vampire clips in the kit.

 

No worries! A lot of the guys here have TapTurn, and they love it! It's super easy to fit too. Just find your flasher, un plug flasher, plug in TapTurn Flasher. Done. 

Edited by Individualities

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2 hours ago, HannesNel said:

HID for the headlights


Do you already have HIDs? or you retro-fitting them?
NZTA changed the laws around HID or LED retrofits btw. WoF fail now :/

 

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