What have you done to your car today?

[Niran]

3 hours ago, ginganinja said:

Finished engine bay tidy up/restore.

 

Cleeeeeeeeeeeeen

[Andy_Mac]

On 2/11/2021 at 6:05 PM, EJGOD said:

Had a set of headers arrive yesterday for a 5th Gen Legacy GT with the low mount turbo location. These cars only came with equal length style manifolds like the 2015+ WRX. My friend and I are going to cut the manifold and extend one side out to effectively make it unequal length

 

Interested to see how this performs.

The Tomei UEL ones for the FA engine look alright but everyone just rips on them for the inefficiency of the idea without really testing them. 

[Gripless]

Is it the fact the each bank joins vs the opposite cylinders.

wont you just need to swap the pipes at the collector.

length alone may not give you the rumble. And the extra length of pipe would be hard get to a low mount.

[Andy_Mac]

51 minutes ago, Gripless said:

Is it the fact the each bank joins vs the opposite cylinders.

wont you just need to swap the pipes at the collector.

length alone may not give you the rumble. And the extra length of pipe would be hard get to a low mount.

 

Have a look at the tomei version. They seem confident in their design not losing much performance while giving a more Subaru sound while just lengthening the two pipes on one side without any rerouted pipes

[Gripless]

Ok I thought the stock ones crossed over at the back.

you’d lose some twin scroll spool up speed but on a single it’d be almost nothing.

The tomei one is still twin scroll which must muffle the rumble more as well.

[Loren]

Buggered both the threads on the chassis for the gearbox cross member

 

Does anyone else have a great deal of trouble getting those lined up? Seems the cross member needs bending slightly for both bolt holes to lines up.

[Andy_Mac]

6 hours ago, Loren said:

Buggered both the threads on the chassis for the gearbox cross member

 

Does anyone else have a great deal of trouble getting those lined up? Seems the cross member needs bending slightly for both bolt holes to lines up.

 

Mine came pre-cross threaded by the last owner. It was a pricey balls up to fix too as they needed to cut the box section open to weld on a bolt.

 

I normally have a big flathead in the opposite side one to maneuver the crossmember into place to get the first bolt in then the second one usually requires a pry bar to get it all lined up. 

[Loren]

 

20 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

 

Mine came pre-cross threaded by the last owner. It was a pricey balls up to fix too as they needed to cut the box section open to weld on a but. 

 

I would like to avoid this for sure... I've got helicoils in for now and hope they hold up. The helicoil kit was bloody expensive too.

Edited November 5, 2021 by Loren

[ginganinja]

8 hours ago, Loren said:

Buggered both the threads on the chassis for the gearbox cross member

 

Does anyone else have a great deal of trouble getting those lined up? Seems the cross member needs bending slightly for both bolt holes to lines up.

Yes I have had trouble with this, however I got a file and filed the inside edges of the holes in the  cross member just enough So I could get the bolts going in straight and then got them both going at the same time and did them each up together. Otherwise if I got one going and did it up too tight the other one would immediately try to cross thread.

 

Even then I still had to getvthe first going and then pull hard on the cross member to get the other one going. Have had the bolts in and out twice since and they have been fine.

Edited November 5, 2021 by ginganinja

[Niran]

Too excited not to share. Some of you will have seen I sold my old type R.. Only reason was because I managed to win this unicorn at Auction! The v6 type R LTD!! Only about 580 made, arguably the rarest subi you can get next to the 22b. Few things made it 'affordable' haha but I don't really care as i'll keep it forever:

• Its an R grade - but was just in a minor frontal (cross member, front support, guards and bonnet replaced, no apparent chassis damage). Still registered in Japan meaning its of a good standard.
• 78,000kms!!! 
• It is modified (WIN WIN WIN) - GDB 6 speed, engine and GRB brembos and maybe some other drivetrain components (hence the UGLY AF wheels)

Looks very very tidy if not for the R grade. So dam stoked to snag this. Been looking for one for over a year! 

 

Anyone know what wheels those are? Trying to figure out if the hubs were replace to 5x114.3 or 5x100 based on those. 

 

 

Edited November 6, 2021 by Niran

[Gripless]

The studs recesses don’t touch the outside edge on the central concave so could be 100mm legacy wheels. They also almost touch the centre cap so that’s a 100mm thing.

you’ll find out at compliance time.

[Loren]

Today so far I have attempted to fit my engine back in the car twice.... first time not enough tilt on the engine... second time it lined up and went on the gearbox perfectly... except I hadn't put the clutch fork on !!!!!

[Timmah]

Over the weekend I drove my WRX for the first time in... 4 months.. and proceeded to rip the front lip off and the clutch started slipping.. so back in the garage it goes until I can afford to replace the clutch.

 

The lip, I'll bin in and replace it with an EZ lip at some point.. the bumper has cracking through it so I may get it repainted.

 

Still makes cool noises when not on full boost though :)

[Timmah]

On 19/01/2022 at 2:34 PM, Timmah said:

Over the weekend I drove my WRX for the first time in... 4 months.. and proceeded to rip the front lip off and the clutch started slipping.. so back in the garage it goes until I can afford to replace the clutch.

 

The lip, I'll bin in and replace it with an EZ lip at some point.. the bumper has cracking through it so I may get it repainted.

 

Still makes cool noises when not on full boost though

 

Car is getting a new clutch at the moment.. plus the rocker covers, rear main seal and the PCV valve and hoses replaced. Hopefully pick it up a in a couple of weeks.

 

Front lip is gone..and I kind of prefer the cleaner look.

[Bugle]

Granted I didn't do it as such, and it was Monday vs today 🙄

 

 

PBMS downpipe and a tune and its back to the published numbers when it rolled of the line at STi 15 years ago (this was a make it happy/reliable tune vs having any horsepower goals). Other than those conclusions and reading the obvious numbers I'm a dyno graph newb, any thoughts from the CS massive?

 

[Andy_Mac]

Don't forget the original power was at the engine where this is the same figure but at the wheels so you get an extra 10-30% bump over the original depending on who you talk to about drivetrain loss. 

[ADIKT]

Serviced the donor car I bought for the race car. 

 

Old oil flushed. New filter, plug washer and oil.

Radiator flushed and filled with fresh coolant. 

Trans was completely empty so filled with oil. 

Brakes bled with fresh fluid so they actually work now. 

Discovered the old fuel filter had been bypassed, so installed a fresh one and hooked it up. Pumped the old fuel out and put some fresh 98 in. Then checked base fuel pressure and adjusted slightly. 

 

Fixed a few other little things like the water temp gauge, the intercooler rubbing on radiator support and the exhaust rattling on towbar. 

 

Found the steering rack leaks like a sieve. Thankfully the one on the racecar doesn't. So will leave that for now.

 

The exhaust is pretty cooked. The bottom of the downpipe is about to break off from the rest of the exhaust. Going twinscroll anyway so not needed. Also noticed its missing 3 of the 5 nuts holding the downpipe to the turbo lol. 

 

Anywho, took it for a short test drive which went well. 12-13psi on a short pull. Sounds pretty healthy and makes cool turbo noises. 

 

Next on the list: send a can of upper engine cleaner through it, change the plugs and check rear diff oil. 

 

Then I'm basically ready to pull the engine from the donor car and start getting it ready to put in the racecar. 

[Boltonator]

Perhaps not today but in the last week. Did my first timing belt change after about a year plus of doing the research online. Used a genuine kit from Armstrongs. Setting the belt guide spacing was interesting as well as nearly stripping out the small pulley bolt due to bad info on the internet. All in all it runs great. There was that little niggly thing where the right side pulleys didnt line up perfectly after pulling the tensioner pin.

 

Also did the sparkplugs. I loosened the engine mounts and lifted the sides of the engine both individually putting a tilt on the engine. Got the plugs in well but it took me a week to figure out that the rattling that ensued after was because of a heat shield bolt that came loose. Took quite a few extensions through the downpipe tube to snug it up.

[Booost]

On 5/03/2022 at 6:22 PM, Boltonator said:

There was that little niggly thing where the right side pulleys didnt line up perfectly after pulling the tensioner pin.

Yes I had the same problem when doing mine last year, it was out by about half a tooth. Removed and reset it about 3 times trying to get it right until I decided to do the smart thing and trust a stranger on the internet. Turns out that's a normal thing.

[Icy]

Figured out how to pull the dash on my BH5 legacy to replace the ABS light for WOF. 

 

Also discovered that the stealership was switching bulbs around to "fix" the lights in the dash that stopped working each time they had my car after a recall...

 

 

[Andy_Mac]

Passed the cert with flying colours but driving it for the first time after doing the hoops I’ve noticed one of the speakers now hums along with the engine speed so may need to piss around with the wiring to get that back to how it used to be

[1randomkiwi]

Well... since I've been without my own car for >2 months, I started looking at Foresters for some softroad adventures...
I am now the owner of a NZ New SH XT

[Technikhaus]

Sold the Gravel Express last night, definitely going to miss it!
Gone to an enthusiast in Queenstown though, so should be well enjoyed and looked after.

[darkchief1]

Stopped procrastinating and started doing. Got the headlights tidied up:

 

 

 

 

And finally made solid progress on the mesh grille I'm working on.

 

 

Tried painting the chrome a couple times, plastic drop sheet caught in the wind and hit the chrome trim when I wasn't looking, so ruined this time. Paint chips off super easy, just as it did the first time I tried to paint the trim and decided to re-do it, so ignore that. Will swap the chrome over to the mesh grille, and swap the grille in next weekend. Any tips on painting this bloody chrome and having it stick? Have tried a few layers of black gloss, then clear - no luck. This time was satin black, no clear, still no luck. It doesn't appear to be hardening well.

 

Next weekend I'll put the grille on, and will pick up a DA to give the car a full cut and polish - time permitting I'll add some clear yellow wrap to the fogs (also assuming that I can cut in a consistent circle). Want to get the car looking good for April Cars and Coffee at Southward Car Museum. Hope to see some of the ClubSub members there too!

[Serchn]

Maybe an etch primer first?, bumper black paint maybe an option as it’s flexible